Day 1: Warm Up
There is nothing like an easy start. At 10am, the ski lifts at Cerro Cathedral open for summer visitors, and we quickly escalated to 1,700m for the beginning of the hike. I was going to miss that cable car over the next few days.
We were a group of five, three guys and two girls. Aviran and Oz completed their army service in elite infantry units not so long ago, and Naama and Moria were hiking guides in Israel. I hiked with the girls in the south-most tip of Argentina, Ushuaya, and they were strong, very strong. On top of that, they were religious, and it felt as if the gods of good weather were present anywhere they went. Always stick with the good weather. It’s the difference between a hellish ride (my Torres del Paine trek, with 150km/hour winds, constant rain, broken tent, sleepless nights and full days of walking soaked wet) and a heart-lifting experience.
I was of course the oldest one in the group. Seems as if at the age of 32 (or more accurately, a week before turning 33), I was doomed to be the oldest of the clan anywhere I travel in South America, and referred to as ‘grandpa’ by my fellow travelers. Oh well, at least I’m fit.
The hike started with an hour’s traverse across boulders and unstable rocks, with promising views of the mountain range around us and the green valley below, and then starts a very steep descent towards the valley. Every step down the 300m drop was a painful reminder that my knees hadn’t yet recovered from previous weeks’ treks. Luckily, I had my hiking poles to rely on. Argentina was the first place I used hiking poles. I always thought they were for old people (read: older people) or for Germans hiking in the Italian Dolomites. Well, there I was, with my hiking poles, facing the reality of grown-ups. Seriously though, the poles are immensely helpful in taking the stress off your knees, and improving your balance when carrying heavy loads up an down steep slopes. Highly recommended.
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After the descent, we had an easy hour of walking in the valley, without realizing it’s the last time we are going to walk on a flat terrain. Soon we started a steep climb towards Bercha Negra. The sun was high in the sky, and we were soaked with sweat when arriving at the pass. Wow. What a view! As the passes bridge between adjacent valleys, reaching them is always rewarded with stupendous views and an excellent place to catch one’s breath, boil water and enjoy much deserved tea and cookies. There is nothing like a granola bar after a long climb!
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